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Affiliation: Solomon Wines of Calaveras County

Winter Means "Port"

As the weather turns cooler, we get more visitors to our Murphys and Clarksburg tasting rooms expressing interest in port.  (Really, since the 2006 European Trade Agreement, we can no longer legally call these dessert wines "Port" since they are not made in Portugal.  Thus, the new spate of "fanciful names" such as Solomon's Portrait and Rapport, Portoad, Fortissimo, etc.)  But we all know what they are...

These ports (sorry, I meant dessert wines) are really popular this time of year because they 1) make great gifts and 2) their sweeter, heavier character (and higher alcohol) make them very warming on cold winter nights.

For those not familiar with the process, ports are made by adding a grape neutral spirit (brandy to many - but nothing like the brandy you'd buy for yourself) to the fermenting wine base.  This addition does a couple of primary things: 1) it stops the fermentation, leaving the wine a bit sweeter than table wines, and 2) makes the wine higher in alcohol (generally 18% to 20%).  Some of these wines are aged in barrels for many years, slightly oxidize, and take on a tawny brown color as a result.  These are the "Tawny Ports."  Another style is to age the fortified wine in a closed container.  Here the color loss is minimal, the wine stays ruby red and thus are called "Ruby Ports."  True ports are made with Portuguese varietals, such as Tinta Madeira, Souzao, Tinta Cao, and Tourga.  These grapes grow really well in the Foothills and, as a result, there is an abundance of these dessert wines made with traditional Portuguese grape varietals.  In and around our Murphys home, some of these wines based traditional varietals include:
  • Fortissimo from Black Sheep Winery
  • Rapport from my own Solomon Winery
  • 2004  Vintage Port from Chatom
  • Portoad from Frog's Tooth Vineyards
  • Indian Rock's Tawny
  • Pig Stai from Twisted Oak
  • Canterbuy Port from Domaine  Becquet (they also do a chocolate version - yum!)
Many California wineries also make port from other grapes.  There is also a broad selection of these wines in the Murphys area as well, including:
  • Brice Station's 2005 Vintage (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot)
  • Indian Rock's Ruby (a blend of of Zinfandel, Barbera, and Merlot)
  • Milliare's 2004 Vintage Clockspring Vineyard
  • Zucca Mountain's Syrah Port
For those not into port-style wines, I have a couple of other fabulous dessert/aperitif alternatives as well.  Hatcher Winery has it's ever-popular "Quinn the Eskimo", which is an ice wine (the Viognier grapes are frozen before processing) that is both sweet and refreshing.  Newsome-Harlow has a new release, called "The Dash" which is a sweet white dessert wine that is a blend of Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli and a "dash" of Viognier.  Both of these two wines are produced in small quantities and sell out quickly, so head on up to Murphys for the final touch to your holiday shopping.

As always, if you'd like to comment on this - or any - of my entries, please contact me at paladin.mod@gmail.com. I respond to all emails and publish those that are deemed appropirate. 

Cheers!

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