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        <title>Wine Declassified</title>
        <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/</link>
        <description>Affiliation: Boeger Winery in El Dorado County</description>
        <language>en-us</language>
        <copyright>Copyright 2008</copyright>
        <lastBuildDate>Tue, 07 Oct 2008 09:30:39 -0800</lastBuildDate>
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            <title>2008 Harvest Wrap-up</title>
            <description><![CDATA[<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">Wow! What an incredible harvest!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Crush began the day after Labor Day, about the "normal" time of year for us, but was over last Saturday, barely four weeks later.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>This was perhaps the shortest harvest for us, but looks to be one of the best years so far of the new millennium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Harvest yields were down by 38% but the quality of the fruit we did receive was absolutely superb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>In 2007 we harvested just over 400 tons of grapes and this year we only harvested 250 tons.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">The high quality was reflected across all grape varietals, but a few did stand out as being exceptional: Aglianico, Barbera, Petite Sirah, Primitivo and Tempranillo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Look for the Barbera and Primitivo to be available in about a year, but don't expect to see the others anytime soon as they are all destined for our Reserve program, which requires a minimum of two years aging before release.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">For those of you who enjoy our Reserve program wines, don't fret:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>we still have a healthy line-up in the tasting room.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Prime among them is my personal favorite: 2004 Milagro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The Milagro is a Rioja-style blend made according to the rules of the Rioja wine region of Spain for making a "Reserva" wine, which include:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>a minimum of three combined years of barrel and bottle aging before release and the utilization of the permitted Rioja varietals, in particular Tempranillo and Graciano.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">Also, for those who have enjoyed our Reserve or Vineyard Select Barbera in the past, we will be releasing a 2006 reserve Barbera sometime this winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The '06 Reserve was bottled in August and is still relaxing away the stress of bottling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Once I taste it and decide that it is fully "relaxed" we'll be releasing it with a grand release party.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Stay tuned for details!<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>]]></description>
            <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/10/2008-harvest-wrapup.html</link>
            <guid>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/10/2008-harvest-wrapup.html</guid>
            
            
            <pubDate>Tue, 07 Oct 2008 09:30:39 -0800</pubDate>
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            <title>Bottling: The End of the Line?</title>
            <description><![CDATA[<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font size="3"><font color="#000000">Many times I'm asked which part of making wine do I like the best.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Is it the thrill of seeing those first grapes come in from the vineyards, anticipating how the finished product will taste two years down the road?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The out-of-state sales trips where eating multi-course, five-star meals six days in a row is actually an obligation rather than a privilege (this for a separate column entirely - it may sound fun, but <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">believe </i>me, it does have a downside)? Is it the eight hours a day that I am required to taste wine (has anyone picked up on my penchant for hyperbole in any of my previous musings yet? I often explain my style of storytelling as being like many good movies: they are based in truth - the basic facts are true and sound, but a little embellishment turns a good narrative into an even better story)?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Or is it maybe the little butterflies arising in my stomach, which <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">still </i>happens, whenever I happen to be at a restaurant and see a bottle of my own wine head out to another table?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Well, the truth, the downright, dirty, not very exciting truth is that my favorite part of the entire winemaking process (or lifestyle) is the day of bottling.<o:p></o:p></font></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font size="3"><font color="#000000">Bottling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Bottling?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>What the heck is so exciting about bottling?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Well, let me tell you.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>But as in any good narrative, err, story, we have to go back to "Once upon time..."<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>For the ease of explanation, I'll start at the beginning, which for further ease we will set as the beginning of the calendar year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I don't really do too much then.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I'm usually a little tired - after all, wine plays an integral role in my life (from the consuming perspective) from Thanksgiving through the New Year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The previous year's wines are sleeping in barrels and there's not much going on in the vineyards except pruning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>So, we'll fast-forward a bit to spring and pretend I've been being very productive tasting wines eight hours a day in the meantime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Clearheaded, despite my tasting job, I begin the real work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>With the first leaves coming out, we begin worrying about weather; frost, in particular, viticulturists' springtime nemesis.<o:p></o:p></font></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font size="3"><font color="#000000">Abridging now...<o:p></o:p></font></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font size="3"><font color="#000000">Oh, look!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>It's harvest time!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I am the winemaker after all; I don't have <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">anything</i> to do until the grapes are ready...<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>So, the grapes come in, my father hands them over with the yearly reminder, "Now don't screw these up," and I get to get my hands dirty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>This is really my second-favorite time of year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>All year long I've been tracking the development of the fruit and the anticipation of turning them into wine is almost unbearable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>This exuberant sensation lasts exactly three days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>After that, I realize I really do have some work to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Like most agriculture, the fruit doesn't wait for us to be mature so we work long hours and many days in a row with little break (boo-hoo).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The important point is that once the fruit is turned into wine, it becomes my baby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>It needs constant care and attention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>It can get sick (tough fermentations, strange flavors, weird microbial growths - more than you wanted to know??), it needs rest (settling, barrel-aging), it has temper tantrums (bungs shooting out of barrels as pent up carbon dioxide is released during secondary-fermentations with a loud "POP!" and a little shower of wine), and it matures (turns into the lovely finished product that we all enjoy).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Well, this caring-for-the-wine process is what I really do all year, and depending on the particulars it can be very nerve-racking, stressful, joyful and exhilarating all at the same time.<o:p></o:p></font></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font size="3"><font color="#000000">Once the wine is all grown-up - well actually, it's more like it just turned eighteen and wants out of the house now - it is time to bottle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>And this is why bottling is my favorite part of the winemaking process.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I have done everything I could to shape the young wine into the "mature" entity it now is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I have led my Cabernet-horse to water and can only hope it has learned to drink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>It is time to send it off into the world, sink or swim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>If I've done my job properly, that bottle of wine will continue to age gracefully until the end of its life, hopefully providing plenty of enjoyment to many people along the way.<o:p></o:p></font></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><o:p><font color="#000000" size="3">&nbsp;</font></o:p></span></p><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><font color="#000000">As I stand there on the bottling wine, watching each bottle fill with wine, get corked, labeled, and packaged up for sale a huge sense of relief comes over me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I've done it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The wine is now out of my hands and into yours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>I usually go home exhausted on a bottling day (we start around 4:30 am sterilizing the bottling line, start bottling at 6:30, bottle eight hours, then clean up for one), but I always love it because I know I'll have the best night's sleep of the year on bottling day.</font></span>]]></description>
            <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/08/bottling-the-end-of-the-line.html</link>
            <guid>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/08/bottling-the-end-of-the-line.html</guid>
            
            
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Aug 2008 15:39:06 -0800</pubDate>
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            <title>The Two Sides of Chard</title>
            <description><![CDATA[<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 0.5in"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">It's during these hot summer months that I drink the most white wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Especially considering last week's soaring temperatures and unhealthy atmospheric particulate levels, I just didn't feel like opening up that big hearty Petite Sirah I've been hanging on to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Instead, I decided to reach for a varietal I don't personally drink too often, and quite frankly, forget about until just the right moment when it jumps out of the wine rack and catches me off guard: Chardonnay.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 0.5in"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000">So, let's talk about Chardonnay, and in the spirit of the divisiveness of our current politics, let's talk about it in extremes.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>There exist two basic approaches to making Chardonnay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>One results in a wine that some describe as having the taste of a buttered oak stump, and the other yields an austere semblance of white wine, sometimes described as slightly flavored water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Now, as I said, we're talking extremes here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>And, as in most disagreements, the truth lies somewhere in between.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>So, since I hate arguing, let's get down to the truth...<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>In general, Chardonnay fans can be broken into two groups, those who prefer a creamy, oaky, rich, barrel-fermented Chardonnay, and those who like a crsip, clean fruity style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Luckily, we have enough Chardonnay grapes at Boeger Winery that I can produce both styles!<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>The Carson Peak Chardonnay is made in the crisp, fruity method.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Basically, I ferment it in stainless steel tanks, allow it to undergo a partial malo-lactic fermentation in order to increase complexity and add a little body, then filter and bottle it much like any other white wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The result is a nice, delicate white that goes with all sorts of food.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>The Boeger Estate Chardonnay, on the other hand, is made like a hearty soup: designed so you can stand a fork up in it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>Okay, well not quite <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal">that </i>thick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>This Chardonnay is barrel fermented in new French and American oak barrels, undergoes malo-lactic fermentation, and is aged sur-lies for up to a year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span>The end product being a rich, creamy, hearty complex white wine.<o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#000000"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span>The saying goes that if you try to please everybody, you'll end up pleasing no one, but I hope that by making two separate styles, rather than trying to take a middle road with one style, I can provide something for most of our consumers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </span><o:p></o:p></font></span></p>
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            <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/07/the-two-sides-of-chard.html</link>
            <guid>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/07/the-two-sides-of-chard.html</guid>
            
            
            <pubDate>Tue, 15 Jul 2008 09:26:21 -0800</pubDate>
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            <title>The Cutting Edge of Wine</title>
            <description><![CDATA[<font color="#000000"><font size="3"><font face="Times New Roman">One of my professors at UC Davis once told me, "We'll teach you the science of winemaking, but you have to go out on your own and learn the art." He was dead-on. True winemaking is a delicate balance of science and art. For me, I even argue that winemaking is science as an artform. It has to be, because I'm so left-brained I can barely draw a stickfigure! In all seriousness though, science has always fascinated me, and to be able to utilize the structured nature of a fundamentally scientific process (fermentation) to create something as amorphous and subjective as wine is simply thrilling.<br /><br />Science, though necessary (I assert) to make a good wine, must be balanced by the art and the ability of the winemaker to look at the whole rather than the parts. Both are necessary to create the best wine. In order to best illustrate, I think it is good to show the extremes as examples: I've had wines made by PhD chemists whose left-brain dominance makes me look like Picasso in comparison; the wines were clean, flawless in every technical detail, and pure - but they had no character. I've also had wines made by true Picassos; the wines had tons of character, but were quite undrinkable! So, I feel a basic understanding of the scientific principles balanced with an artist's ability to conceptualize the end product long before it is ever produced is essential.<br /><br />In order to maintain that balance, it is vital to hone your skills. I "practice" the art on a daily basis: tasting wines, making blends, visualizing how my wines will age and change over time and make adjustments accordingly - that's all part of the art. The science, well, I do the routine "science" of winemaking on a daily basis too: measure acidity, SO2 levels, etc. - but that isn't really "practicing." In order to really improve the science side, I try to keep up on the newest and the latest in the science and technology of winemaking; which is what I'll be doing in Portland this week at the annual meeting of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture (ASEV).<br /><br />Founded in 1950, ASEV is an amazing resource for pretty much all aspects of winemaking and grape growing. On the science and technology side, you have seminars given by researchers explaining their latest innovations, discoveries and theories. From a practical application standpoint you have the exhibition hall with many industry suppliers showcasing their latest equipment and gadgets that incorporate the newest innovations. For me, it's reminiscent of going to the county fair as a child: wonderous and amazing with no dearth of opportunities to learn - the only differences are that the carnies are scientists and the kids are winemakers, grape growers and industry reps that are all old enough to drink!<br /><br />When I return, hopefully I'll be armed with new insights that will allow me to continue improving the wines I make. I just need to be careful to not get so entranced in the science that I lose sight of the art...</font></font></font>]]></description>
            <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/06/the-cutting-edge-of-wine.html</link>
            <guid>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/06/the-cutting-edge-of-wine.html</guid>
            
            
            <pubDate>Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:16:29 -0800</pubDate>
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            <title>The Boeger story</title>
            <description><![CDATA[I'm really looking forward to being able to interact with wine and food aficionados via the sacbeewineregion.com! What a great way to share thoughts and ideas regarding wine and the things it goes best with: family, food and friends. For me, it's a great way to share the wonderful wines and opportunities of Sacramento's wine regions.<br /><br />So, let me introduce myself: I'm Justin Boeger, winemaker at Boeger Winery in Placerville. Boeger Winery is a family-run affair, if the names above didn't already give that away, and is the oldest winery in the El Dorado appellation. In the early '70s, my parents were both working for the State, my dad in the Department of Agriculture and my mom as a social worker. They were looking for a change of career. My father, Greg, had spent several summers of his youth at his grandfather's winery in the Napa Valley (Nichelini Winery) and must've remembered it very fondly. He was able to convince my mother, Sue, that they should abandon their jobs and start a winery themselves. So, knowing that land in Napa was already very expensive, even then, and that El Dorado. County had a long wine history itself, they decided to set up shop just east of Placerville at the historic Lombardo-Fossati ranch, which had been a winery during the late 1800s. With a little help from Sue's father they purchased the property and founded Boeger Winery in 1972.<br /><br />Coincidentally (or prophetically?), I was born that same year in November, right at the time of our first crush. Naturally, I grew up on the winery property and as soon as I could work I began helping out. Not that I was paid much - I specifically recall my mom telling me, when I had asked for a raise, that I worked for room-and-board. Not surprisingly, mom is the CFO and if it wasn't for her my dad and I would've probably bankrupted the place years ago!<br /><br />By the time I graduated from high school, I had determined that I never wanted anything to do with grapes or wine; however, I promptly decided to re-include wine by the end of my first quarter at UC Davis... I enrolled under the Fermentation Science major, which included winemaking and brewing, but didn't actually take a wine class until my third year there. After my first class I was hooked, and decided that the wine business was where I needed to be. I then realized that in order to have the best education, I should go out and intern for other wineries, to observe other winemaking methods. I ended up going to the Franconia wine region of Germany and did two internships at Staatlicher Hofkellerei Würzburg and Julius-Spital (two of the largest and most prestigious wineries of the region). I chose Germany because of our family history there, and because I've always felt that winemaking is basically the same everywhere - each place just has a unique twist they add. Also, though not so well-known here, Germany produces some exceptional red wines including Pinot Noir (which they call Spätburgunder, translated: "Late Burgundy").<br /><br />By 1998 I finished up my degree from UC Davis and came back to work with the family. In 2000 my father abdicated the official title of "Winemaker," and dedicated himself to what his greatest passion in the business: grape growing. Today, the three of us work as a team, each with our own area of responsibility. My mom keeps the financial "ship" on course, my dad provides great fruit, and I, as my dad says, just have to take that great fruit and "not screw it up" as I turn it into wine!<br /><br />So, as the sacbeewineregion.com grows, I hope to be able to cover anything and everything related to wine and winemaking. I know that's a broad range to cover, but I'll just tailor any conversation to fit what I know about it. I can't wait to get going! Zum wohl!]]></description>
            <link>http://blogs.sacwineregion.com/justin_boeger/2008/05/boeger-wine.html</link>
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            <pubDate>Tue, 20 May 2008 14:04:10 -0800</pubDate>
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