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Affiliation: Wine Director, Red Bud Café in Cameron Park

Grenache: The Pinot Noir of the Foothills

When I think of Pinot Noir, I think light delicate sensations. the tickle of a feather, a cool breeze, a gentle mist on a hot day. Pinot Noir in the old world of France is bright and moody. A fragile nuanced bouquet that has qualities of rose petals and earth. In California, Pinots have become more about berries and stone fruits with rose petals always looming somewhere in nose. Good Pinot is around, and great Pinots are worth finding, but there are  great alternatives like Grenache to satisfy even the most discriminating Pinot fan.

First a little background.  Grenache is Spain's second most widely planted grape, commonly blended to soften up the harsher Tempranillo grape. Alone, Spanish Grenache is rustic and if extensively pruned and planted in the poorest soils can produce seriously dense reds that require decades of cellaring. In El Dorado County the results are quite different.

Grenache vines a very vigorous and ideal for drought. The plant produces large clusters with large grapes giving a high juice to skin ratio. That means a lighter body delicate palate feel, like what non-fat milk is to whole milk. The bouquets are often red raspberries, some are candied, and most have a slight nutty spice in the finish. It's very versatile food wine with light tannins and good acidity to pair with lamb or beef. There are so many great producers here in the foothills while Pinot Noir is common but difficult to find consistent quality. Crystal Basin Cellars, Bechard, David Girard, Cedarville, and Holly's Hill just to name a few. I've been pairing Bechard's '05 Grenache with our Gorgonzola stuffed Lamb Meat balls.

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